REPTILE CARE

Bearded dragons are native to Australia. Lifespan in captivity is approximately 10+ years, with adult size around 12 to 14 inches. They can make great pets if kept properly in captivity.

HOUSING

Bearded dragons should generally be housed singly throughout their lives. Although not usually recommended, it may be possible to keep them in breeding pairs or in groups with one male and two or more females with the appropriate setup.

CAGE

A 10-20 gallon enclosure is adequate for a single juvenile dragon. Several similarly sized juveniles may be kept together provided there is ample space and food. Smaller animals should be separated if not thriving. A single adult dragon requires a minimum enclosure size of about 48 inches long x 19 inches wide x 22 inches high (75 gallon aquarium).

BEDDING / SUBSTRATE

Newspapers/paper towels are safest and easiest to replace/clean. Vinyl tile (from hardware store) or Repti-Carpet can also be used. If a paper pulp material (Carefresh) is used, you should feed your pet in a separate enclosure to prevent ingestion. Replace bedding/substrate or clean the surface every 1-2 days to prevent exposure to waste. **SAND, GRAVEL, MULCH/BARK, AND OTHER NATURAL SUBSTRATES SHOULD NOT BE USED DUE TO DIFFICULTY CLEANING, RISK OF GASTROINTESTINAL ISSUES IF EATEN, AND PROBLEMS WITH IRRITATION OF EYES/MOUTH.

CAGE 'FURNITURE'

Branches, driftwood, cork bark and/or large rocks can be provided for climbing. A hiding box can be placed on the warm side of the enclosure. In addition to providing adequate floor space, it is necessary to provide several basking sites and hiding areas if multiple dragons are housed together. **HEATED ROCKS SHOULD NEVER BE USED DUE TO RISK OF THERMAL BURNS.

TEMPERATURE / HEATING

A temperature gradient should be created in the enclosure, with a warm side and a cool side. This allows the dragon to regulate its temperature by changing location. Provide a daytime focal basking area of 85-95°F on the warm side of the enclosure (use incandescent bulb, ceramic heating element, or red/other bulb; under tank heating pad can also be used if needed). Daytime temperatures on the cooler side of the enclosure should be 75-80°F. Use multiple digital thermometers with probes to ensure appropriate temperatures are maintained. Dial thermometers are often inaccurate. Provide a nighttime temperature range of 60-70°F throughout the enclosure. If needed, a safe under tank heating pad, ceramic heating element, or red bulb can help in maintaining recommended temperatures. Due to risk of burn injuries, always use appropriate rheostats/thermostats if using the commonly available ZooMed heating pads. Heating pads with which we have had good experiences include Ultratherm Heat Pads (beanfarm.com) and Cobra T-Rex Heat Pads (available from many pet stores).

UVB LIGHTING

Provide an ultraviolet B (5.0 UVB) light over the basking area (within 18 inches, no glass/acrylic in between) for 12-14 hours in summer and 10-12 hours in winter. UVB is necessary for vitamin D production and appropriate absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal system. Replace this bulb approximately every 6 months, as UVB production decreases with time.

FEEDING JUVENILES

Vegetables (approximately 50% of diet) – Feed variety of dark leafy vegetables, such as romaine lettuce, green/red leaf lettuce, or Boston lettuce, collard greens, mustard greens, baby kale, endive, dandelion greens, parsley, bok choy, and broccoli (leaves and florets). Limited amounts of other vegetables (carrots, squash, peas, beans) can be offered. Chop/shred greens, spray with water, and offer in bowl or on plate ONCE OR TWICE DAILY.

Insects (approximately 50% of diet) – Offer appropriately sized gut-loaded insects ONCE OR TWICE DAILY. Crickets should be no longer than width of dragon’s head. To properly gut load, provide insects with a complete diet, such as rodent chow, dry dog food, or bird pellets. Insects should primarily be crickets and/or dubia roaches. Mealworms, giant mealworms and wax moth larvae are high in fat and can be offered in small amounts as a treat. To prevent injury to your dragon, remove uneaten crickets immediately.

Vitamin supplements – Dust salad and insects with a high quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (such as Reptivite (with NO phosphorous added) 4-5 times a week. Dust insects with a high quality multi-vitamin (with a vitamin A source that is NOT beta carotene) once a week . ZooMed Reptivite without Vitamin D is a good option.

Other foods – Commercial bearded dragon diets (moistened with water) can be offered, but should not make up more than 50% of the diet. Due to higher vitamin and mineral content, dragons eating mainly a commercial diet may need to have their multi-vitamin and calcium supplementation reduced.

FEEDING ADULTS

Vegetables (approximately 80% of diet) – Feed variety of dark leafy vegetables, such as romaine lettuce, green/red lead lettuce, or Boston lettuce, collard greens, mustard greens, baby kale, endive, dandelion greens, parsley, bok choy, and broccoli (leaves and florets). Limited amounts of other vegetables (carrots, squash, peas, beans) can be offered. Chop/shred greens, spray with water, and offer in bowl or on plate ONCE DAILY TO EVERY OTHER DAY.

Insects (approximately 20% of diet) – Offer gut-loaded insects TWO TO THREE TIMES PER WEEK. To properly gut load, provide insects with a complete diet, such as rodent chow, dry dog food, or bird pellets. Insects should primarily be crickets. Mealworms, giant mealworms and wax moth larvae are high in fat, and should be offered only in small amounts as a treat. To prevent injury to your dragon, remove uneaten crickets immediately.

Vitamin supplements – Dust salad and insects with a high quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with NO phosphorous added) 2-3 times a week. Dust insects with a high quality multi-vitamin (with vitamin A source that is NOT beta carotene) once every other week. ZooMed Reptivite without Vitamin D is a good option.

Other foods – Commercial bearded dragon diets (moistened with water) can be offered, but should not make up more than 50% of the diet. Due to the higher vitamin and mineral content, dragons eating mainly a commercial diet may need to have their multi-vitamin and calcium supplementation reduced.

WATER

Water bowl – Provide clean, fresh water in a dish/bowl into which your dragon can easily climb (small/low for juveniles). Change water daily.

Encourage drinking – Mist the environment once daily with water in a spray bottle. You can also drip water on your dragon’s head with a water bottle.

Soaking – Soak your pet 2-3 times a week in warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and help with shedding.

PREVENTIVE CARE

We highly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experienced reptile veterinarian.

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About 1500 species of geckos exist in the world. The most commonly found in captivity include leopard geckos (native to Asia through parts of India), African fat-tailed geckos, and New Caledonian crested geckos (see separate husbandry handout for crested gecko care). Lifespan in captivity is approximately 7-10 years, and adult size of the most popular species is generally up to 6 inches when measured snout to vent, but varies somewhat between species. As compared to many other species, care of geckos can be relatively straightforward, making them good pets.

HOUSING

Geckos should generally be housed singly throughout their lives to avoid conflict between animals and resultant injury. Two or more juvenile or female geckos can sometimes be housed together if adequate space and hiding areas are provided.

CAGE

A 10 gallon enclosure is adequate for a single juvenile gecko. A 20 gallon or larger enclosure is appropriate for an adult. In addition to glass aquariums, Exoterra brand and similar enclosures are also appropriate.

BEDDING / SUBSTRATE

Newspapers/paper towels are safest and easiest to replace/clean. Vinyl tile (from hardware store) or Repti-Carpet can also be used. If a paper pulp material (Carefresh) is used, you should feed your pet in a separate enclosure to prevent ingestion. Replace bedding/substrate or clean the surface every 1-2 days to prevent exposure to waste. **SAND, GRAVEL, MULCH/BARK, AND OTHER NATURAL SUBSTRATES SHOULD NOT BE USED DUE TO DIFFICULTY CLEANING, RISK OF GASTROINTESTINAL ISSUES IF EATEN, AND PROBLEMS WITH IRRITATION OF EYES/MOUTH.

CAGE 'FURNITURE'

Branches, driftwood, cork bark and/or large rocks can be provided for climbing. A hiding box can be placed on the warm side of the enclosure. In addition to providing adequate floor space, it is necessary to provide several hiding areas if multiple geckos are housed together. **HEATED ROCKS SHOULD NEVER BE USED DUE TO RISK OF THERMAL BURNS.

TEMPERATURE / HEATING

A temperature gradient should be created within the enclosure, with a warm side and a cool side. This allows the gecko to regulate its temperature by changing location. A reptile under tank heating pad is usually sufficient to maintain the correct temperatures. Use multiple digital thermometers with probes to monitor, as dial thermometers are often inaccurate. Temperatures should reach 92-95 degrees F over the heating pad and 70-75 degrees on the cooler side. Always place a hide box over the heating pad. If you have more than one gecko in an enclosure, you will need a larger heating pad and multiple hiding boxes, as animals will often not share. If your home is kept cooler, you may need a ceramic heating element or colored heat light to provide sufficient heat and reach the recommended temperature ranges. Due to risk of burn injuries, always use appropriate rheostats/thermostats if using the commonly available ZooMed heating pads. Heating pads with which we have had good experiences include Ultratherm Heat Pads (beanfarm.com) and Cobra T-Rex Heat Pads (available from many pet stores).

LIGHTING

As this is a nocturnal species, no UVB light source or basking area is required.

FEEDING JUVENILLES

Insects – Offer appropriately sized gut-loaded insects DAILY. Crickets should be no longer than width of gecko’s head. To properly gut load, provide insects with a complete diet, such as rodent chow, dry dog food, or bird pellets. Insects should primarily be crickets. Mealworms, giant mealworms and wax moth larvae are high in fat, and should be offered only in small amounts and on occasion. To prevent injury to your gecko, remove uneaten crickets immediately.

Vitamin supplements – Dust insects with a high quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with NO phosphorous added) 4-5 times a week. Dust insects with a high quality multi-vitamin (with a vitamin A source that is NOT beta carotene) once a week. ZooMed Reptivite without Vitamin D is a good option.

FEEDING ADULTS

Insects – Offer gut-loaded insects TWO TO THREE TIMES PER WEEK. To properly gut load, provide insects with a complete diet, such as rodent chow, dry dog food, or bird pellets. Insects should primarily be crickets. Mealworms, giant mealworms and wax moth larvae are high in fat, and should be offered only in small amounts. To prevent injury to your gecko, remove uneaten crickets immediately.

Vitamin supplements – Dust insects with a high quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with NO phosphorous added) 2-3 times a week. Dust insects with a high quality multi-vitamin (with a vitamin A source that is NOT beta carotene) once every other week.

WATER

Water bowl – Provide clean, fresh water in a dish/bowl into which your gecko can easily climb (small/low for juveniles). It should be large enough to fit your pet’s entire body. Change water daily.

Encourage drinking – Mist environment and gecko once daily with water in a spray bottle.

Soaking – Soak your pet 2-3 times a week in warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and help with shedding.

PREVENTIVE CARE

We highly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experienced reptile veterinarian.

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Native to rainforest and some desert environments, chameleons are becoming increasingly popular as pets in the United States. Their management is highly specialized, and they are considered to be extremely fragile and notoriously difficult to keep in captivity. Appropriate husbandry and diet are key to their successful maintenance. Lifespan in captivity ranges from 1-5 years, and adult size varies with species.

HOUSING

Appropriate housing is important to maintaining chameleons in captivity long term. Improper temperature range, lighting, caging, hydration, or types and size of food items cause stress and can lead to disease. Setting up an appropriate enclosure is often the most important step to ensuring your chameleon’s health. Chameleons should generally be housed singly throughout their lives. If enclosures are near each other, use visual barriers to reduce stress associated with line of sight. Although not recommended, several juveniles can be housed together if interactions are minimized using adequate foliage.

CAGE CHOICE 

A large, well-ventilated cage/enclosure is ideal. Screening is preferred to maximize ventilation. Be sure there are no sharp edges; plastic-coated screening or PVC mesh is often safer than metal screening. Aquariums (large and vertically-oriented) may work for smaller species and juveniles. Exo-terra makes screened enclosures that can be appropriately set up for chameleons. In certain circumstances, a “free” style enclosure using a large potted plant may also work, however it’s important to prevent escape and provide appropriate lighting/heat/etc.

CAGE 'FURNITURE' / FOLIAGE 

Provide numerous branches (various sizes) and plants (ficus, pothos, others) for climbing and hiding. Artificial plants are easier to keep clean than natural plants. BEDDING / SUBSTRATE Newspaper, butcher paper, or paper towel are safest and easiest to replace/clean. Vinyl tile (from hardware store) or Repti-Carpet can also be used. Clean/replace the surface every few days to prevent exposure to waste. Untreated topsoil (no fertilizers present) can also be used, but may be difficult to keep clean. **SAND, GRAVEL, MULCH/BARK, OR OTHER NATURAL SUBSTRATES SHOULD NEVER BE USED DUE TO DIFFICULTIES IN CLEANING, RISK OF GASTROINTESTINAL ISSUES IF EATEN, AND PROBLEMS WITH IRRITATION OF EYES AND DELICATE TISSUE OF MOUTH.

TEMPERATURE 

Preferences vary among species, with two primary groups existing. **NOTE the preferred temperature ranges include significantly cooler temperatures at night – this is very important to your chameleon’s health.** An incandescent light bulb, ceramic heating element, or red/other bulb can provide heat for the focal basking area. Use digital thermometers with probes (not dial thermometers) to monitor temperature, and be sure a temperature gradient exists within the enclosure so your chameleon can remove itself from the basking area when cooler temperatures are preferred.

*Montane/highland group – Species of Chamaeleo, including Jackson’s chameleon (C. jacksonii), Fischer’s chameleon (C. fischeri), mountain chameleon (C.montium), Parson’s chameleon (C. parsonii).

Daytime temperature between 70-80°F, with focal basking site reaching 82-85°F.

Nighttime temperature as low as 55-60°F.

Nighttime temperature as low as 64-66°F.

UVB LIGHT 

Provide a 5.0 ultraviolet B (UVB) light over the basking area (within 18 inches) for 12-14 hours in summer and 10-12 hours in winter. UVB is necessary for appropriate absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal system. Replace this bulb approximately every 6 months, as UVB output decreases with time. Chameleons can also be placed in natural sunlight in a screened enclosure during the warmer months. Don’t use an aquarium due to risk of overheating, and always supervise if outside due to risk of predators.

HUMIDITY 

Generally, montane/highland species require a higher humidity than lowland/tropical species. A relatively high humidity range of 50-75% is appropriate for most chameleons. Spraying the enclosure multiple times a day with clean, fresh water can help maintain humidity. Adequate ventilation should not be sacrificed in an effort to maintain high humidity, as this can lead to medical problems and microbial growth. Commercial humidifiers should be avoided or used with caution due to risk of microbial growth. If used, they must be cleaned thoroughly every few weeks.

DIET

Insects – Offer appropriately sized gut-loaded insects ONCE DAILY TO EVERY OTHER DAY. Crickets should be no longer than the width of your pet’s head. To properly gut load, provide insects with a complete diet, such as rodent chow, dry dog food, or bird pellets. Insects can include crickets, flies, butterflies, and wax-moth larvae and adults. The number of insects fed varies to some extent, but a good rule of thumb is that juveniles should be fed as much as they will eat, while adults should average approximately 5-15 adult crickets every 2-3 days.

VITAMIN SUPPLEMENTS 

Dust insects with a high quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with NO phosphorous added) 3-4 times a week in juveniles and twice weekly in adults. Dust insects with a high quality multi-vitamin (with a vitamin A source that is NOT beta carotene) once a week in juveniles and once every other week in adults. ZooMed Reptivite without Vitamin D is a good option.

WATER 

Although a water bowl can be provided in the enclosure, chameleons generally will not drink from standing water, making appropriate hydration slightly more challenging than in many other reptile species.

Green iguanas have been kept as pets in captivity for many decades, however their popularity has decreased in recent years as people have become more aware of their large adult size and correlated space requirements. For the appropriately educated individual, iguanas can make interesting pets, but be sure to do your research beforehand. Adult iguanas can reach 3-6 feet in length including their tails. Full-grown adults require something on the order of a small room or very large multi-level cage with adequate out of cage time, making them inappropriate pets for many people, and a challenge for the novice reptile keeper.

HOUSING

Iguanas should be housed singly throughout their lives.

CAGE

A 30 gallon aquarium or Rubbermaid tub is an adequate starter enclosure for an iguana, but will not be appropriate for very long. As your pet grows, you will have to buy or build larger enclosures. At a minimum, an adult iguana will need a cage 4-5 feet tall, 4 feet long and 2-3 feet wide. Offering multiple levels with platforms and/or branches allows your pet to utilize more of its enclosure and pursue its natural climbing habits. Larger iguanas may be kept in a small room or custom built enclosure.

BEDDING / SUBSTRATE

Newspapers or paper towels are safest and easiest to replace/clean. Vinyl tile (from hardware store) or Repti-Carpet can also be used. If a paper pulp material (e.g. Carefresh) is used, you should feed your pet in a separate enclosure to prevent ingestion. Replace the bedding/substrate or clean the hard surface every 1-2 days to prevent exposure to waste. **SAND, GRAVEL, MULCH/BARK, OR OTHER NATURAL SUBSTRATES SHOULD NOT BE USED DUE TO DIFFICULTIES IN CLEANING, RISK OF GASTROINTESTINAL ISSUES IF EATEN, AND PROBLEMS WITH IRRITATION OF EYES AND DELICATE TISSUE OF MOUTH.

CAGE 'FURNITURE'

Platforms, branches, driftwood, cork bark and/or large rocks can be provided for climbing. **HEATED ROCKS SHOULD NEVER BE USED DUE TO RISK OF THERMAL BURNS.

TEMPERATURE / HEATING

A temperature gradient should be created within the enclosure, with a warm side and a cool side. This allows the iguana to regulate its temperature by changing location. Provide a daytime focal basking area of 90-95°F (use incandescent bulb, ceramic heating element, or red/other bulb; under tank heating pad can also be used if needed) on the warm side of the enclosure. Daytime temperatures on the cooler side of the enclosure should be 75-85°F. Use multiple digital thermometers with probes to ensure appropriate temperatures are maintained. Dial thermometers are often inaccurate. Provide a nighttime temperature range of 70-85°F throughout the enclosure. If needed, a safe under tank heating pad, ceramic heating element, or red bulb can help in maintaining recommended temperatures. Due to risk of burn injuries, always use appropriate rheostats/thermostats if using the commonly available ZooMed heating pads. Heating pads with which we have had good experiences include Ultratherm Heat Pads (beanfarm.com) and Cobra T-Rex Heat Pads (available from many pet stores).

LIGHTING

Provide an ultraviolet B (5.0 UVB) light over the basking area (within 18 inches, no glass/acrylic in between) for approximately 12 hours a day. UVB is necessary for vitamin D production and appropriate absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal system. Replace this bulb approximately every 6 months, as UVB production decreases with time.

Try to expose your iguana to natural sunlight as much as possible during the summer months. DO NOT leave your iguana outside in a glass tank or an enclosed container because it will overheat. Try building an all screen enclosure and make sure part of it is always shaded. Dogs, cats, raccoons, etc. like to eat iguanas, so DO NOT leave your iguana unattended outside unless you are certain the cage is secure.

FEEDING

Vegetables (70-80% of diet) – Feed variety of dark leafy vegetables, such as collard greens, kale, endive, spinach, romaine lettuce, green/red leaf lettuce, Boston lettuce, parsley, bok choy, and broccoli (leaves and florets). Limited amounts of other vegetables (carrots, squash, peas, beans) can be offered.. Chop/shred greens, spray with water, and offer in bowl or on plate once daily to every other day depending on the age of your iguana.

Complete diet (20-30% of diet) – Commercial iguana diets (moistened with water) can be offered. Common brands include Rep-cal, Reeds, Zeigler, Scenic, Pretty Pets, or Nutri-grow. Due to higher vitamin and mineral content, iguanas eating mainly a commercial diet (at least 50%) may need to have their multi-vitamin and calcium supplementation reduced.

Vitamin supplements – If your iguana eats largely greens, you will need to supplement the diet with vitamin and calcium powders. Dust salad with a high quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with NO phosphorous added) 4-5 times a week in juveniles and 2-3 times a week in adults. Dust salad with a high quality multi-vitamin (with a vitamin A source that is NOT beta carotene and NO vitamin D3) once a week in juveniles and once every other week in adults. ZooMed Reptivite without Vitamin D is a good option.

WATER

Water bowl – Provide clean, fresh water in a dish/bowl into which your dragon can easily climb (small/low for juveniles). Change water daily.

Encourage drinking – Mist the environment and iguana 3-4 times daily with water in a spray bottle.

Soaking – Soak your pet 2-3 times a week in warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and help with shedding.

PREVENTIVE CARE

We highly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experienced reptile veterinarian.

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The natural habitat of Eastern box turtles includes large parts of the Eastern United States. In general, it is NOT recommended that these animals be taken from the wild and kept as pets due to dwindling wild populations. In specific individuals, injuries or deformities preventing normal movement, complete shell closure, or otherwise increasing risk of predation may make a captive lifestyle preferable. Captive bred box turtles can also be found on occasion. Eastern box turtles have the potential to live 40+ years with appropriate care, with life spans in the wild sometimes extending much longer. Without appropriate care, animals in captivity can have significant health issues leading to disease and significantly shortened lifespan.

CAGE

Rubber Maid and other plastic containers work better than glass aquariums for box turtles. If you do use an aquarium, paper should be attached along the sides (outside of the tank) to create a solid looking barrier for your pet. The size of the enclosure is based on your turtle’s size, and will need to be increased as your pet grows. Ideally, the enclosure should be about 10 times as long as the turtle’s length and 5 times the turtle’s width. Turtles are often good climbers, and the height of the enclosure should be about 3 times the length of your pet. Outdoor pens and turtle tables can also make ideal enclosures. Outdoor enclosures should always be secure from predators and potential escape, either by climbing or digging.

BASKING AREA

An appropriate basking area should be set up on one side of the enclosure, and is essential to promoting natural behaviors and ensuring your pet’s health. The basking area should include a heat source (e.g. incandescent bulb, ceramic heat fixture, other heat bulb) and a UVB light source. 5.0 UVB bulbs must be within 18 inches of your turtle (no glass/plastic in between; metal screening is okay), and should be replaced approximately every 6 months due to a significant reduction in UVB wavelengths over time. The heat and UVB fixtures should be on for approximately 10-12 hours daily. Combination heat and UVB bulbs are available as an alternative. The temperature of the basking area should reach approximately 90-95 degrees F. A digital thermometer with probe is recommended to monitor the temperature in this area.

During the warmer months, you may expose your turtle to natural sunlight, however be sure to not leave your pet outside in an enclosed container/tank, as it may overheat. You may even be able to build a secure outdoor enclosure for your pet using screening or sturdy fine mesh fencing. The enclosure should have a top and bottom (can be buried), to prevent escape (turtles can dig and climb), and avoid the danger of predators, such as raccoons, dogs, and cats. Always supervise your pet when outside unless you are positive the enclosure is completely safe and secure. Dog runs and fenced areas can be used for large turtles, but it is still recommended that the enclosure be secured as previously described.

HEATING PAD

An under the tank heating pad or a red light bulb may be used to provide extra heat at night, but the cage temperature does need to drop into the lower 80’s – upper 70’s. It is recommended that heating pads be used with rheostats (thermostats) to prevent overheating. We have had good luck with heating pads from beanfarm.com. Cobra T-Rex heating pads are similar and available in many pet stores.

SUNLIGHT

Try to expose your turtle to natural sunlight as much as possible during the summer months. DO NOT leave your turtle outside in a glass tank or an enclosed container because it will overheat. Try building an all screen enclosure for your turtle with an area that is shaded throughout the day. Keep in mind that turtles are great diggers. Dogs, cats, raccoons, etc. like to eat turtles so DO NOT leave your turtle unattended outside unless you are positive the cage is secure.

SUBSTRATE

Newspaper/paper towels are the safest substrate to use for turtles of all life stages, especially hatchlings. As the turtle grows, you can switch to a particulate substrate (such as a recycled newspaper product). If using a particulate substrate, always feed your turtle on a dish, paper plate, or piece of newspaper to lower the chance for intestinal blockage.

CLEANING

Turtles are generally considered to be very messy/dirty animals. Excess food, waste material, and shedding skin and scales collect in the environment rapidly. Ultimately, keeping your pet turtle’s enclosure clean is one of the most important steps you can take to ensuring its health and preventing disease.

DIET

Fruit / Greens - Roughly 30-40% of the diet should consist of healthy fruits and leafy greens. Try kiwi, melons, mango, berries, banana, kale, collard greens, romaine, red and green leaf lettuce and some shredded carrot and sweet potato. If your turtle won’t eat the veggies, shred them very fine and mix them with smashed fruit to increase palatability.

Commercial Diet - About 30-40% of the diet should consist of a complete box turtle diet such as: Rep-cal, Zeigler, Scenic or Pretty Pets. Be sure to offer a pelleted diet and soften it in water before giving it to your box turtle. You may have to smash it up with fruit to get your turtle to eat it.

Insects - About 30-40% of the diet should consist of insects including earthworms, crickets, and mealworms. Always purchase these from a pet shop or a bait shop since insects caught outdoors may contain toxins. Always “gutload” the insects before feeding them to your turtle. This can be accomplished by feeding the insects healthy foods such as greens, crushed dog food, and commercial cricket food for 24 hours prior to giving them to your turtle.

WATER

Keeping your turtle adequately hydrated is very important. Offer a shallow, non-spill bowl in the enclosure. It should be small enough that the turtle cannot climb into it, flip over and drown. All turtles should be soaked in shallow warm water for 15-20 minutes. Hatchling and young turtles should be soaked daily and misted 1-2 times daily. Soak adult turtles 2-3 times weekly.

VITAMIN SUPPLEMENTS

You should use a calcium supplement with vitamin D3 2-3 times weekly. Use a multivitamin (with Vit. A; no D3) once every other week. ZooMed Reptivite without Vitamin D is a good option. If your turtle’s diet consists of at least 50% complete pellet diet, this supplementation may not be necessary.

PREVENTIVE CARE

Appropriate husbandry and water quality are the most important factors in keeping your pet turtle healthy. In addition, we highly recommend an annual physical examination with an experienced reptile veterinarian

REPRODUCTIVE ISSUES

Female turtles frequently become reproductively active in captivity, whether or not a male is present, and intervention may be required to prevent egg impaction and address associated problems. Valuable diagnostic testing that can be performed on turtles includes fecal examination, radiography (x-rays), ultrasonography, blood work, etc.

Hundreds of species of aquatic turtles exist in the world, with red eared sliders being one of the most commonly kept pet turtles. Adult sizes vary with species, so potential new turtle owners should research their species of interest extensively. Some grow to over a foot in diameter and may require over 100 gallons of swimming space.

CAGE

The general set-up for an aquatic turtle includes an area for swimming and an area for basking. A general rule of thumb is that a turtle requires about 10 gallons of swimming space for every inch of shell diameter. Therefore, a 4 inch turtle should have about 40 gallons of swimming space, while a full grown female slider, often 10-12 inches diameter, may require over 100 gallons of swimming space. Because of the large amount of space needed, housing an aquatic turtle can be expensive, and people often become creative with their setups. Some options for housing include glass aquariums, plastic containers (such as Rubbermaid), and indoor pond setups. Websites worth exploring for housing ideas include austinsturtlepage.com and www.waterlandtubs.com. Many turtle owners have posted photos of their setups, including the basking areas, online. A durable submersible heater may be beneficial to keep the water temperature between about 75 and 85 degrees F.

SUBSTRATE

The best substrate for a turtle is no substrate. Leaving the bottom of your enclosure empty of rocks, gravel or sand makes cleaning easier and reduces surface area that promotes bacterial growth. Additionally, gravel and sand may be eaten by your pet, leading to intestinal blockage. For decorative purposes, some people use several larger rocks and artificial plants, which can be easily removed and cleaned.

LIGHTING / TEMPERATURE

Providing an appropriate basking area for your pet is essential to promoting natural behaviors and ensuring its health. Your turtle must be able to get its entire body out of the water in order to dry off. For smaller turtles, commercial products, such as basking docks and islands, are available. For larger turtles, you may have to become creative and design your own basking area. Many turtle owners maximize their pet’s swimming and basking spaces by building “above tank basking areas”. Photos and design ideas are available online. Your turtle’s basking area should include a heat source (e.g. incandescent bulb, ceramic heat fixture, other heat bulb) and a UVB light source. The UVB bulb must be within 18 inches of your turtle (no glass/plastic in between; metal screening is okay), and should be replaced approximately every 6 months due to a significant reduction in UVB wavelengths over time. The heat and UVB fixtures should be on for approximately 10-12 hours daily. Combination heat and UVB bulbs are available as an alternative. The temperature of the basking area should reach approximately 85-90 degrees F. A digital thermometer with probe is recommended to monitor the temperature in this area. During the warmer months, you may expose your turtle to natural sunlight. However, be sure to not leave your pet outside in an enclosed container/tank, as it may overheat. Always supervise due to the risk of predators and escape.

CLEANING

Turtles are generally considered to be very messy/dirty animals. Excess food, waste material, and shedding skin and scales collect in the environment rapidly. Ultimately, keeping your pet turtle’s enclosure clean is the most important step you can take to ensuring its health and preventing disease.

FILTRATION

The larger and more powerful your filter, the less frequently you will have to clean your turtle’s water. Ideally, a professional grade canister filter would be used (e.g. Eheim, Fluval). Purchase one that is intended for an aquarium several times the size of your turtle’s enclosure, as turtles are much dirtier than fish or other aquatic animals. Even with a large canister filter and an appropriately sized enclosure, you must still clean your pet’s home thoroughly every 2-3 weeks, and 50% water changes are recommended once weekly.

Due to the expense of the larger filtration units, many people ultimately purchase smaller filters. In this situation, more frequent cleaning is essential to ensuring your pet’s health. 50% water changes should be performed twice weekly, and the entire tank changed every 1-2 weeks.

CLEANING / WATER CHANGING

Water changes may be performed using a siphon system or buckets according to the schedule recommended above. Some people find the Python Siphon to be particularly helpful with frequent water changes. When cleaning out/changing the entire tank, first remove your turtle to a safe location (i.e. small tub, bathtub, etc.). The aquarium and all its contents, including rocks, fake plants, and other cage “furniture”, should be scrubbed with soapy water. Dilute bleach (1:20) can be used to disinfect all surfaces as needed. Everything should be rinsed well with fresh water several times before refilling and replacing your pet.

DIET

High quality floating turtle pellets and/or turtle sticks are widely available and can make up a large portion of your pet’s diet. We have had good experiences with Repcal and Mazuri brand turtle pellets, but Reptomin turtle sticks and ZooMed pellets are also good diets. For slider species, in addition to this commercial food, we recommend offering leafy greens, such as romaine lettuce, kale, collards and red and green leaf lettuce. Offer greens several times a week. Be sure to remove any uneaten portions of food that could rot and add to water quality problems. You can also condition your turtle to eat in a separate container of water to help keep the main tank cleaner. Crickets, frozen thawed pinkies and feeder goldfish can be offered as treats. Some wild caught species, such as the African Sideneck turtle and Helmeted turtle, may need to be offered crickets and pinkies while becoming acclimated to captivity, along with offering them a pelleted diet.

PREVENTIVE CARE

Appropriate husbandry and water quality are the most important factors in keeping your pet aquatic turtle healthy. In addition, we highly recommend an annual physical examination with an experienced reptile veterinarian.

Numerous tortoise species exist in the world, with Russian Tortoises, Redfoot Tortoises, and Leopard Tortoises being some of the most commonly kept as pets. Adult size varies with species, and many can live 20-50+ years. Any potential new tortoise owners should research their species of interest extensively, as some grow to be over two feet in diameter, and may require large indoor and outdoor enclosures.

CAGE

Rubber Maid and other plastic containers work better than glass aquariums for tortoises. If you do use an aquarium, paper should be attached along the sides (outside of the tank) to create a solid looking barrier for your pet. The size of the enclosure is based on your tortoise’s size, and will need to be increased as your pet grows. Ideally, the enclosure should be about 10 times as long as the tortoise’s length and 5 times the tortoise’s width. Tortoises are often good climbers, and the height of the enclosure should be about 3 times the length of your pet. Giant species, such as G. sulcata, will eventually need a custom enclosure, a room, or indoor/outdoor pen.

BEDDING / SUBSTRATE

Newspaper/paper towels are the safest substrate to use for tortoises, especially hatchlings. As the tortoise grows, you can switch to a particulate substrate such as a recycled newspaper product like Carefresh, or to damp cypress mulch for humid species. If using a particulate substrate, always feed your tortoise on a paper plate or piece of newspaper to lower the chance for intestinal blockage.

LIGHTING

An appropriate basking area should be set up on one side of the enclosure, and is essential to promoting natural behaviors and ensuring your pet’s health. The basking area should include a heat source (e.g. incandescent bulb, ceramic heat fixture, other heat bulb) and a UVB light source. The UVB bulb must be within 18 inches of your turtle (no glass/plastic in between; metal screening is okay), and should be replaced approximately every 6 months due to a significant reduction in UVB wavelengths over time. The heat and UVB fixtures should be on for approximately 10-12 hours daily. Combination heat and UVB bulbs are available as an alternative. The temperature of the basking area should reach approximately 90-95 degrees F. A digital thermometer with probe is recommended to monitor the temperature in this area.

SUNLIGHT

Try to expose your tortoise to natural sunlight as much as possible during the summer months. DO NOT leave your tortoise outside in a glass tank or an enclosed container because it will overheat. Try building an all screen enclosure for your tortoise with an area that is shaded throughout the day. Keep in mind that tortoises are great diggers. Dogs, cats, raccoons, etc. like to eat tortoises so DO NOT leave your tortoise unattended outside unless you are positive the cage is secure.

During the warmer months, you may expose your tortoise to natural sunlight, however be sure to not leave your pet outside in an enclosed container/tank, as it may overheat. You may even be able to build a secure outdoor enclosure for your pet using screening or sturdy fine mesh fencing. The enclosure should have a top and bottom (can be buried), to prevent escape (tortoises can dig and climb), and avoid the danger of predators, such as raccoons, dogs, and cats. Always supervise your pet when outside unless you are positive the enclosure is completely safe and secure. Dog runs and fenced areas can be used for giant tortoises, but it is still recommended that the enclosure be secured as previously described.

CLEANING

Tortoises are generally considered to be very messy/dirty animals. Excess food, waste material, and shedding skin and scales collect in the environment rapidly. Ultimately, keeping your pet tortoise’s enclosure clean is one of the most important steps you can take to ensuring its health and preventing disease.

DIET

Greens – For most tortoises, 70-80% of the diet should consist of a variety of dark leafy greens such as: Collards, romaine, kale, red/green leaf lettuce, endive, mustard greens, escarole, etc.

Fruit – If you have a S. American species such as a Red or Yellow Foot tortoise, you need to add healthy fruits into the diet. Try kiwi, all melons, papaya, mango, all berries and some banana.

Hay – Timothy, orchard grass and alfalfa hay are good sources of fiber for all species of tortoise. It may be difficult to digest if your tortoise is not adequately hydrated or is a hatchling. Wait until your tortoise is about a year old to start offering hay. You can order hay from www.oxbowhay.com. If you have a grazing species, such as G.sulcata, hay should be the largest portion of the diet.

Complete Diets – 20-30% of the diet should consist of a complete tortoise or iguana diet such as: Rep-cal, Reeds, Zeigler, Scenic, Pretty Pets and Quantum www.herpnutrition.com. Be sure to use a pelleted diet, and soften it in water before giving it to your tortoise.

Supplementation - You should use a calcium supplement with vitamin D3 3-4 times weekly. Use a multivitamin (with Vit. A; no D3) once every other week. ZooMed Reptivite without Vitamin D is a good option.If your tortoise’s diet consists of at least 50% complete pellet diet, this supplementation may not be necessary.

WATER

Keeping your tortoise adequately hydrated is very important, even for desert species. Offer a shallow, non-spill bowl in the enclosure. It should be small enough that the tortoise cannot climb into it, flip over and drown. All tortoises should be soaked in shallow warm water for 15-20 minutes. Hatchling and young of all species should be soaked daily and misted 1-2 times daily. Soak adult desert species 1 time weekly and adult tropical species 2-3 times weekly.

PREVENTIVE CARE

We highly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experienced reptile veterinarian.

There are over 50 species of pythons and boas currently recognized in the world, with a variety of interesting color mutations now available within the pet trade. Lifespan and adult sizes vary greatly with species, and many can get quite large and live a long time, so be sure to research your prospective pet well.

HOUSING

Pythons and boas should generally be housed singly throughout their lives.

CAGE

Appropriate cage size varies considerably with species due to the great variety of sizes of pythons and boas. For example, a 30 gallon aquarium is fine for a most single hatchling snakes, and may even be adequate for some smaller snake species as adults. Larger species, such as Burmese and Reticulated Pythons, require very large enclosures that can be purchased through reptile supply companies. Whatever the size of the enclosure, always use a secure mesh top to prevent escape and allow proper ventilation.

BEDDING / SUBSTRATE

Newspapers or paper towels are safest and easiest to replace/clean. Vinyl tile (from hardware store) or Repti-Carpet can also be used. Replace the bedding/substrate or clean the hard surface every couple days to prevent exposure to waste. **SAND, GRAVEL, MULCH/BARK, OR OTHER NATURAL SUBSTRATES SHOULD NOT BE USED DUE TO DIFFICULTIES IN CLEANING, RISK OF GASTROINTESTINAL ISSUES IF EATEN, AND PROBLEMS WITH IRRITATION OF EYES AND DELICATE TISSUE OF MOUTH.

CAGE 'FURNITURE'

Offer a hiding box or humidity box on the warm side of the enclosure (depending on your species’ specific humidity needs). A simple design for a humidity box is a Tupperware style container with a hole cut into one side through which your snake can enter. Fill it with damp sphagnum moss, which can be checked for moisture and rewet daily or as needed. Replace the moss and clean out the box approximately every 2 weeks or as needed to prevent mold growth or waste build-up. Branches, driftwood, cork bark and/or large rocks can also be used in the environment, but be sure everything is easy to clean. **HEATED ROCKS SHOULD NEVER BE USED DUE TO RISK OF THERMAL BURNS.

TEMPERATURE / HEATING

A temperature gradient should be created within the enclosure, with a warm side and a cool side. This allows the snake to regulate its temperature by changing location. An under tank heating pad placed under 1/3-1/2 of the enclosure is ideal (large enough for snake’s entire body to fit over it), as snakes need a good heat source beneath them in order to properly digest food. The temperature over the heating pad should reach about 90 degrees F at all times (day and night). If the heating pad is inadequate to reach this temperature, an incandescent light bulb or other reptile safe ceramic heater/colored bulb can be used as an additional heat source in this area. Use multiple digital thermometers with probes to ensure appropriate temperatures are maintained. Dial thermometers are often inaccurate. Due to risk of burn injuries, always use appropriate rheostats/thermostats if using the commonly available ZooMed heating pads. Heating pads with which we have had good experiences include Ultratherm Heat Pads (beanfarm.com) and Cobra T-Rex Heat Pads (available from many pet stores).

LIGHTING

Pythons and boas do not need a UVB light source or basking area.

DIET

Snakes are carnivores requiring a diet of WHOLE PREY ITEMS. They should be fed ONCE A WEEK until mature, after which they should be fed ONCE EVERY OTHER WEEK. Prey items offered should be no larger than the widest part of your snake. This means that you may need to feed multiple smaller items (rather than one larger item) in order to fulfill your pet’s needs. Prey options available commercially are generally mice or rats, with the size depending on the age of the rodent, ranging from pinkies through adult animals. In hatchling or very small snakes, you may need to cut up the pinkies into even smaller pieces. Always feed pre-killed/frozen and thawed prey items, as live rodents can bite and seriously injure your snake. Snakes do not generally eat while in shed.

WATER

Water bowl – On the cool side of the enclosure, always provide clean, fresh water in a dish/bowl. It should be large enough to fit your pet’s entire body. Change water daily.

Soaking – Soak your pet 2-3 times a week in warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and help with shedding. When your snake is shedding (scale colors dull, eyes appear blue-grey), you should increase soaking to ONCE A DAY.

SHEDDING

Snakes should shed all at once, rather than in patches or pieces as in lizards. If your snake is having trouble shedding, try setting up a humidity box (described above) if you don’t already have one, mist the enclosure 2-3 times daily, and perform daily soaking. If your pet continues to have trouble shedding, please contact your veterinarian, as this may indicate a health problem. NEVER forcefully remove shedding skin that is not ready to come off, as this may cause permanent damage to the underlying tissues. Snakes do not generally eat while in shed.

PREVENTIVE CARE

We highly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experienced reptile veterinarian.

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This large family includes two thirds of current snake species. Lifespan and adult sizes vary greatly with species, and many can get quite large and live a long time, so be sure to research your prospective pet well.

HOUSING

Colubrids should generally be housed singly throughout their lives.

CAGE

Appropriate cage size varies considerably with species due to the great variety of sizes of colubrids. For example, a 30 gallon aquarium is fine for a most single hatchling snakes, and may even be adequate for some smaller snake species as adults. Larger species require very large enclosures that can be purchased through reptile supply companies. Whatever the size of the enclosure, always use a secure mesh top to prevent escape and allow proper ventilation.

BEDDING / SUBSTRATE

Newspapers or paper towels are safest and easiest to replace/clean. Vinyl tile (from hardware store) or Repti-Carpet can also be used. Replace the bedding/substrate or clean the hard surface every couple days to prevent exposure to waste. **SAND, GRAVEL, MULCH/BARK, OR OTHER NATURAL SUBSTRATES SHOULD NOT BE USED DUE TO DIFFICULTIES IN CLEANING, RISK OF GASTROINTESTINAL ISSUES IF EATEN, AND PROBLEMS WITH IRRITATION OF EYES AND DELICATE TISSUE OF MOUTH.

CAGE 'FURNITURE'

Offer a hiding box or humidity box on the warm side of the enclosure (depending on your species’ specific humidity needs). A simple design for a humidity box is a Tupperware style container with a hole cut into one side through which your snake can enter. Fill it with damp sphagnum moss, which can be checked for moisture and rewet daily or as needed. Replace the moss and clean out the box approximately every 2 weeks or as needed to prevent mold growth or waste build-up. Branches, driftwood, cork bark and/or large rocks can also be used in the environment, but be sure everything is easy to clean. **HEATED ROCKS SHOULD NEVER BE USED DUE TO RISK OF THERMAL BURNS.

TEMPERATURE / HEATING

A temperature gradient should be created within the enclosure, with a warm side and a cool side. This allows the snake to regulate its temperature by changing location. An under tank heating pad placed under 1/3-1/2 of the enclosure is ideal (large enough for snake’s entire body to fit over it), as snakes need a good heat source beneath them in order to properly digest food. The temperature over the heating pad should reach about 90 degrees F at all times (day and night). If the heating pad is inadequate to reach this temperature, an incandescent light bulb or other reptile safe ceramic heater/colored bulb can be used as an additional heat source in this area. Use multiple digital thermometers with probes to ensure appropriate temperatures are maintained. Dial thermometers are often inaccurate. Due to risk of burn injuries, always use appropriate rheostats/thermostats if using the commonly available ZooMed heating pads. Heating pads with which we have had good experiences include Ultratherm Heat Pads (beanfarm.com) and Cobra T-Rex Heat Pads (available from many pet stores).

LIGHTING

Colubrids do not need a UVB light source or basking area.

DIET

Snakes are carnivores requiring a diet of WHOLE PREY ITEMS. They should be fed ONCE A WEEK until mature, after which they should be fed ONCE EVERY OTHER WEEK. Prey items offered should be no larger than the widest part of your snake. This means that you may need to feed multiple smaller items (rather than one larger item) in order to fulfill your pet’s needs. Prey options available commercially are generally mice or rats, with the size depending on the age of the rodent, ranging from pinkies through adult animals. In hatchling or very small snakes, you may need to cut up the pinkies into even smaller pieces. Always feed pre-killed/frozen and thawed prey items, as live rodents can bite and seriously injure your snake. Snakes do not generally eat while in shed.

WATER

Water bowl – On the cool side of the enclosure, always provide clean, fresh water in a dish/bowl. It should be large enough to fit your pet’s entire body. Change water daily.

Soaking – Soak your pet 2-3 times a week in warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and help with shedding. When your snake is shedding (scale colors dull, eyes appear blue-grey), you should increase soaking to ONCE A DAY.

SHEDDING

Snakes should shed all at once, rather than in patches or pieces as in lizards. If your snake is having trouble shedding, try setting up a humidity box (described above) if you don’t already have one, mist the enclosure 2-3 times daily, and perform daily soaking. If your pet continues to have trouble shedding, please contact your veterinarian, as this may indicate a health problem. NEVER forcefully remove shedding skin that is not ready to come off, as this may cause permanent damage to the underlying tissues. Snakes do not generally eat while in shed.

PREVENTIVE CARE

We highly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experienced reptile veterinarian.

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Tegus are native to Central and South America. Lifespan and adult sizes vary with species, and many can get quite large, so be sure to research your prospective pet well.

HOUSING

Tegus should generally be housed singly throughout their lives.

CAGE

A 30 gallon aquarium is adequate for a single juvenile animal. An adult monitor requires a minimum enclosure size of at least twice the length of the animal. Use a secure mesh top to prevent escape and allow proper ventilation. Due to the large size of adult monitors, you may have to build an appropriate enclosure or invest in a large commercial enclosure.

BEDDING / SUBSTRATE

Newspapers/paper towels are safest and easiest to replace/clean. Vinyl tile (from hardware store) or Repti-Carpet can also be used. If a paper pulp material (Carefresh) is used, you should feed your pet in a separate enclosure to prevent ingestion. Replace bedding/substrate or clean the surface every 1-2 days to prevent exposure to waste. **SAND, GRAVEL, MULCH/BARK, AND OTHER NATURAL SUBSTRATES SHOULD NOT BE USED DUE TO DIFFICULTY CLEANING, RISK OF GASTROINTESTINAL ISSUES IF EATEN, AND PROBLEMS WITH IRRITATION OF EYES/MOUTH.

CAGE 'FURNITURE'

Branches, driftwood, cork bark and/or large rocks can be provided for climbing. Hiding areas should also be provided. **HEATED ROCKS SHOULD NEVER BE USED DUE TO RISK OF THERMAL BURNS.

TEMPERATURE / HEATING

A temperature gradient should be created within the enclosure, with a warm side and a cool side. This allows the tegu to regulate its temperature by changing location. Provide a daytime focal basking area of 90-95°F (use incandescent bulb, ceramic heating element, or red/other bulb; under tank heating pad can also be used if needed) on the warm side of the enclosure. Daytime temperatures on the cooler side of the enclosure should be 75-85°F. Use multiple digital thermometers with probes to ensure appropriate temperatures are maintained. Dial thermometers are often inaccurate. Provide a nighttime temperature range of 75-85°F throughout the enclosure. If needed, a safe under tank heating pad, ceramic heating element, or red bulb can help in maintaining recommended temperatures. Due to risk of burn injuries, always use appropriate rheostats/thermostats if using the commonly available ZooMed heating pads. Heating pads with which we have had good experiences include Ultratherm Heat Pads (beanfarm.com) and Cobra T-Rex Heat Pads (available from many pet stores).

UVB LIGHTING

Provide an ultraviolet B (5.0 UVB) light over the basking area (within 18 inches; no glass/acrylic in between) for approximately 12 hours a day. UVB is necessary for vitamin D production and appropriate absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal system. Replace this bulb approximately every 6 months, as UVB production decreases with time.

DIET

Offer appropriately sized food items daily to several times a week. This can include killed/frozen and thawed rodents (pick appropriate prey item based on the size of your tegu), crickets, mealworms, and small amounts of tegu or cat food. To prevent injury to your pet, never feed live rodents and remove uneaten crickets immediately.

WATER

Water bowl – Provide clean, fresh water in a dish/bowl into which your tegu can easily climb (small/low for juveniles). It should be large enough to fit your pet’s entire body (a baking pan or low sided cat litter box work well). Change water daily.

Humidity – Fill a dish or container large enough to fit your pet’s entire body (a baking pan or low sided cat litter box work well) with sphagnum moss, and mist this area once or twice daily with water from a spray bottle to keep it moist, creating a higher humidity micro-environment for your pet. Watch the moss closely for mold growth and waste, and replace it completely approximately every 2 weeks, or more often if needed.

Soaking – Soak your pet 2-3 times a week in warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and help with shedding.

PREVENTIVE CARE

We highly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experienced reptile veterinarian.

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Uromastyx are native to northern Africa and the Middle East and there are numerous different species. Lifespan is roughly 15 years and adults can grow up to 30 inches in length, depending on the species. These animals are often wild caught and a wellness exam is important to determine health status and how well they are adjusting to captivity.

Over 1500 species of skinks exist in the world, with the blue-tongued skin and the prehensile-tongued skin being two of the most popularly kept as pets. Lifespan, adult sizes, and diet vary greatly with the species, so be sure to research your prospective pet well.

HOUSING

Skinks should generally be housed singly throughout their lives. Housing requirements may vary between species. The following are general guidelines, but it is recommended that you research your skink’s specific needs.

CAGE

A 30 gallon enclosure is adequate for a single juvenile skink. A single adult animal requires a minimum enclosure size of about 48 inches long x 13 inches wide x 21 inches high (55 gallon aquarium). Use a secure mesh top to prevent escape and allow proper ventilation.

BEDDING / SUBSTRATE

Newspapers/paper towels are safest and easiest to replace/clean. Vinyl tile (from hardware store) or Repti-Carpet can also be used. If a paper pulp material (Carefresh) is used, you should feed your pet in a separate enclosure to prevent ingestion. Replace bedding/substrate or clean the surface every 1-2 days to prevent exposure to waste. **SAND, GRAVEL, MULCH/BARK, AND OTHER NATURAL SUBSTRATES SHOULD NOT BE USED DUE TO DIFFICULTY CLEANING, RISK OF GASTROINTESTINAL ISSUES IF EATEN, AND PROBLEMS WITH IRRITATION OF EYES/MOUTH.

CAGE 'FURNITURE'

Although generally ground-dwelling reptiles, branches, driftwood, cork bark and/or large rocks can be provided for climbing and environmental enrichment. Also be sure to offer places to hide. **HEATED ROCKS SHOULD NEVER BE USED DUE TO RISK OF THERMAL BURNS.

TEMPERATURE / HEATING

A temperature gradient should be created within the enclosure, with a warm side and a cool side. This allows the skink to regulate its temperature by changing location. Provide a daytime focal basking area of 90-100°F (use incandescent bulb, ceramic heating element, or red/other bulb; under tank heating pad can also be used if needed) on the warm side of the enclosure. Daytime temperatures on the cooler side of the enclosure should be 75-85°F. Use multiple digital thermometers with probes to ensure appropriate temperatures are maintained. Dial thermometers are often inaccurate. Nighttime temperatures can be 68-85°F throughout the enclosure. If needed, a safe under tank heating pad, ceramic heating element, or red bulb can help in maintaining recommended temperatures. Due to risk of burn injuries, always use appropriate rheostats/thermostats if using the commonly available ZooMed heating pads. Heating pads with which we have had good experiences include Ultratherm Heat Pads (beanfarm.com) and Cobra T-Rex Heat Pads (available from many pet stores).

HUMIDITY

Fill a dish or semi-enclosed container large enough to fit your pet’s entire body (a baking pan or Tupperware style container with an entrance hole cut out work well) with sphagnum moss, and mist this area once or twice daily with water from a spray bottle to keep it moist, creating a higher humidity micro-environment for your pet. Watch the moss closely for mold growth and waste, and replace it completely approximately every 2 weeks, or more often if needed.

UVB LIGHTING

Provide an ultraviolet B (5.0 UVB) light over the basking area (within 18 inches, no glass/acrylic in between) for about 12 hours per day. UVB is necessary for vitamin D production and appropriate absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal system. Replace this bulb approximately every 6 months, as UVB production decreases with time.

DIET AND SUPPLEMENTATION

Vegetables – Vegetables can be fed TWICE WEEKLY in juveniles and EVERY OTHER DAY in adults. Offer variety of dark leafy vegetables, such as collard greens, kale, romaine lettuce, green/red leaf lettuce, or Boston lettuce, endive, spinach, parsley, bok choy, and broccoli (leaves and florets). Other vegetables (squash, sweet potatoes, carrots, peas, beans) can help make the diet more balanced. Chop/shred greens, spray with water, and offer in bowl or on plate.

Insects – Offer appropriately sized gut-loaded insects DAILY in juveniles and EVERY OTHER DAY in adults. Crickets should be no longer than width of your pet’s head. To properly gut load, provide insects with a complete diet, such as rodent chow, dry dog food, or bird pellets. Insects should primarily be crickets. Mealworms, giant mealworms and wax moth larvae are high in fat, and should be offered only in small amounts. To prevent injury to your skink, remove uneaten crickets immediately.

Vitamin supplements – Dust salad and insects with a high quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with NO phosphorous added) 4-5 times a week in juveniles, and 2-3 times a week in adults. Dust insects with a high quality multi-vitamin (with a vitamin A source that is NOT beta carotene) once a week in juveniles, and once every other week in adults. ZooMed Reptivite without Vitamin D is a good option

Other foods – Commercial skink pellets can also be offered to ensure a more complete diet. Due to higher vitamin and mineral content, skinks eating mainly a commercial diet may need to have their multi-vitamin and calcium supplementation reduced.

WATER

Water bowl – Provide clean, fresh water in a dish/bowl into which your skink can easily climb (small/low for juveniles). It should be large enough to fit your pet’s entire body. Change water daily.

Soaking – Soak your pet 2-3 times a week in warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and help with shedding.

PREVENTIVE CARE

We highly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experienced reptile veterinarian.

WATER

Water bowl – Provide clean, fresh water in a dish/bowl into which your skink can easily climb (small/low for juveniles). It should be large enough to fit your pet’s entire body. Change water daily.

Humidity – Fill a dish or semi-enclosed container large enough to fit your pet’s entire body (a baking pan or Tupperware style container with an entrance hole cut out work well) with sphagnum moss, and mist this area once or twice daily with water from a spray bottle to keep it moist, creating a higher humidity micro-environment for your pet. Watch the moss closely for mold growth and waste, and replace it completely approximately every 2 weeks, or more often if needed.

Soaking – Soak your pet DAILY to EVERY OTHER DAY in warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and help with shedding.

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Over 70 species of monitor lizards are currently recognized, with many originating from Africa, Asia, and Australia. Lifespan and adult sizes vary with species, and many can get quite large, so be sure to research your prospective pet well.

HOUSING

Monitors should generally be housed singly throughout their lives.

CAGE

A 30 gallon aquarium is adequate for a single juvenile animal. An adult monitor requires a minimum enclosure size of at least twice the length of the animal. Use a secure mesh top to prevent escape and allow proper ventilation. Due to the large size of adult monitors, you may have to build an appropriate enclosure or invest in a large commercial enclosure.

BEDDING / SUBSTRATE

Newspapers/paper towels are safest and easiest to replace/clean. Vinyl tile (from hardware store) or Repti-Carpet can also be used. If a paper pulp material (Carefresh) is used, you should feed your pet in a separate enclosure to prevent ingestion. Replace bedding/substrate or clean the surface every 1-2 days to prevent exposure to waste. **SAND, GRAVEL, MULCH/BARK, AND OTHER NATURAL SUBSTRATES SHOULD NOT BE USED DUE TO DIFFICULTY CLEANING, RISK OF GASTROINTESTINAL ISSUES IF EATEN, AND PROBLEMS WITH IRRITATION OF EYES/MOUTH.

CAGE 'FURNITURE'

Branches, driftwood, cork bark and/or large rocks can be provided for climbing. Hiding areas should also be provided. **HEATED ROCKS SHOULD NEVER BE USED DUE TO RISK OF THERMAL BURNS.

TEMPERATURE / HEATING

A temperature gradient should be created within the enclosure, with a warm side and a cool side. This allows the dragon to regulate its temperature by changing location. Provide a daytime focal basking area of 90-95°F (use incandescent bulb, ceramic heating element, or red/other bulb; under tank heating pad can also be used if needed) on the warm side of the enclosure. Daytime temperatures on the cooler side of the enclosure should be 75-85°F. Use multiple digital thermometers with probes to ensure appropriate temperatures are maintained. Dial thermometers are often inaccurate. Provide a nighttime temperature range of 75-85°F throughout the enclosure. If needed, a safe under tank heating pad, ceramic heating element, or red bulb can help in maintaining recommended temperatures. Due to risk of burn injuries, always use appropriate rheostats/thermostats if using the commonly available ZooMed heating pads. Heating pads with which we have had good experiences include Ultratherm Heat Pads (beanfarm.com) and Cobra T-Rex Heat Pads (available from many pet stores).

UVB LIGHTING

Provide an ultraviolet B (5.0 UVB) light over the basking area (within 18 inches; no glass/acrylic in between) for approximately 12 hours a day. UVB is necessary for vitamin D production and appropriate absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal system. Replace this bulb approximately every 6 months, as UVB production decreases with time.

HUMIDITY

Fill a dish or container large enough to fit your pet’s entire body (a baking pan or low sided cat litter box work well) with sphagnum moss, and mist this area once or twice daily with water from a spray bottle to keep it moist, creating a higher humidity micro-environment for your pet. Watch the moss closely for mold growth and waste, and replace it completely approximately every 2 weeks, or more often if needed.

DIET

Offer appropriately sized food items daily to several times a week. This should usually include small items, such as crickets, mealworms, pre-killed/frozen and thawed pinkies, or monitor/dog/cat food. On occasion, a larger prey item, such as a pre-killed/frozen and thawed mouse or rat (depending on your monitor’s size) can be offered. To prevent injury to your pet, never feed live rodents and remove uneaten crickets immediately.

WATER

Water bowl – Provide clean, fresh water in a dish/bowl into which your monitor can easily climb (small/low for juveniles). It should be large enough to fit your pet’s entire body (a baking pan or low sided cat litter box work well). Change water daily.

Soaking – Soak your pet 2-3 times a week in warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and help with shedding.

PREVENTIVE CARE

We highly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experienced reptile veterinarian.

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