Parrot Husbandry and Preventive Care
NUTRITION
The precise nutritional requirements of most bird species are not entirely known and multiple schools of thought exist regarding their dietary needs. For parrots, we recommend a diet of approximately 75% bird pellets and 25% other foods. Pellets are intended to be nutritionally complete. Common brands include Harrison’s, Roudybush, LaFaebers, Scenic, Exact, and ZuPreem. Conversion from seeds to pellets requires patience, but is worthwhile to promote your bird’s health. See our “Pellet Conversion” handout for a conversion method with which we have had success. The remaining 25% of the diet can include other foods. Dark, leafy greens and orange vegetables are highly nutritious. Other vegetables, small pieces of fruit, some nuts (i.e. almonds, walnuts, pistachios), and healthy “people food” can be offered in moderation. Seeds and peanuts are high in fat and nutritionally unbalanced, and should generally be avoided or reserved as occasional treats.
Smaller birds, such as cockatiels and budgies, have adapted to a larger seed component in their diets. We recommend they eat approximately 50%-75% pellets, with the remainder being a healthy seed mix. Because of this mixed requirement, it can be difficult to convert them to pellets, as they tend to preferentially pick out seeds. As an alternative to traditional pellets, Harrison’s High Potency Mash can be offered on seed mix and other foods to make the diet more nutritionally complete.
CAGE
The biggest cage you can afford is generally best. At a minimum, it should be at least two times the width of your bird’s extended wingspan. Be sure bar spacing is appropriate to avoid escape or injury. DO NOT USE any cage with zinc components (anything galvanized) or lead soldering. Stainless steel or powder/plastic-coated cages intended for birds are usually safe provided your bird does not chew through the protective coating. Newspaper or paper towel can be used as a cage liner. NEVER USE corncob, walnut shells, wood shavings, grit, or sand in your cage. These can predispose birds to developing fungal infections and GI tract problems.
CLEANING
Keeping your bird’s environment clean is essential to its health. Using newspaper/paper towel to line the cage allows for quick and easy cleaning. Consider removing the cage grate (be sure your bird can’t escape through this space!) or covering it with newspaper to make cleaning easier. Replace cage liners at least once a day (clean grate daily if present). Dishes should be changed or cleaned once daily, with fresh water provided. If your bird dunks food, you may need to change the water multiple times a day. A more thorough cleaning of the cage, toys, and perches should be performed at least once a week. If your bird is present while cleaning, use hot water with unscented dish soap or a bird-safe enzymatic cleaner (e.g. Poop Off). As an alternative, dishes, toys, and perches can often be washed on the top rack of the dishwasher. For more thorough cleanings, move your bird to a different location, remove all organic material, and then clean with dilute bleach (1:30 dilution with water). Allow at least 15 minutes contact time before rinsing thoroughly.
PERCHES
Promote healthy feet by choosing perches of varying diameters and materials. A variety of wooden perches is ideal and most natural. Rope perches work well, but can fray; trim loose strands, and replace if there is concern of ingesting material. AVOID sandpaper perches, as they can damage feet and don’t wear down nails well. A concrete perch can be offered, but should not be the highest perch, as this will likely be where your pet spends the most time. Inappropriate perches can lead to pododermatitis (inflammation of the feet).
TOYS
Providing a variety of toys is ideal. Birds are often happiest when destroying things, so expect to replace toys often. Store bought toys intended for birds should be inspected for safety before use. Homemade toys can be created from bird safe materials – be sure all quick links, carabineers, and bells are zinc and lead-free. Simple toys of toilet paper/paper towel rolls, Dixie cups, cardboard boxes, and paper lunch bags are great. Foraging toys, in which food or treats are hidden in a toy or safe packaging, encourage birds to mimic natural behaviors in the wild, and help keep your bird busy. Rotate some or all toys in your bird’s cage every 1-2 weeks to keep your pet’s mind occupied.
BATHING
Birds should bathe in fresh, clean water at least twice weekly to encourage normal preening behavior, promote feather health, and help prevent respiratory disease. Be sure your bird is thoroughly soaked. Some enjoy bathing in bowls, going into the shower, or playing in running water from a faucet. Most enjoy, or will tolerate, being sprayed by a spray or misting bottle.
PREVENTIVE MEDICINE
Birds are adept at hiding signs of illness. Sitting still with feathers fluffed is a common sign. Changes in behavior or apparent personality can also indicate a health problem. Stool composition, appetite, and breathing patterns will often change when a bird is sick. Because birds can be delicate, it is better to err on the side of caution and bring your pet in for an exam as soon as signs of a problem are noticed. Annual to bi-annual physical exams and blood work can also be important to catching problems early. It is highly recommended that all new pet birds receive a complete physical exam and appropriate disease testing. New pet birds should also be quarantined from resident birds in your home for 60-90 days to help prevent disease transmission.
RESTRAINT
To make handling easier in an emergency, when medicating, or while at the vet, we recommend acclimating your pet to restraint in a towel. Wrap it around the body, and restrain the bird with your thumb and forefinger around the neck. Because birds have complete tracheal rings, their tracheas (windpipes) are sturdy, making this technique the safest for restraint. The opposite hand can be used to help support the feet or hold the towel in place. Birds do not have a diaphragm, and breathe by expanding their chests. Because of this anatomical feature, it is essential that you NEVER WRAP YOUR FINGERS AROUND THE CHEST OR OTHERWISE COMPRESS THE CHEST, as this can impede or stop your bird’s breathing. If you have any questions in regards to proper restraint with a towel, please ask us to demonstrate the technique during your bird’s exam.
GROOMING
Grooming in birds involves trimming wing feathers, toenails (talons), or both. Trimming wing feathers reduces or takes away the ability to fly, which can be safer in confined spaces of a home. Safety advantages include preventing injury (crashing into doors, windows, toilet bowls, hot stove, etc.), reducing chance of escape (through open window/door), and lessening the risk of a bird getting into something he/she should not (preventing toxin exposure, foreign body ingestion, etc.). Behavioral advantages include easier training and handling. Nails grow throughout a bird’s life, and can be trimmed/dremmeled (shaped using electric grinding tool) as needed to allow for more comfortable handling and prevent problems due to unequal weight-bearing from overlong nails. A healthy bird with good beak conformation should not require beak trims. Some birds, however, have beak malocclusion (top and bottom do not meet and wear evenly) or other medical problems (liver disease, nutritional deficiencies, etc.) requiring regular beak care. Grooming can be performed during regular appointments or scheduled with a technician.
UVB LIGHTING
Some species, especially those of African origin, may benefit from safe exposure to natural sunlight and/or an avian UVB bulb over the cage. Please discuss the benefits and safety with your veterinarian to best fulfill your bird’s needs.
***Having birds as family members is rewarding, but can also be challenging and time consuming. Although this handout discusses the basics of avian husbandry, we recommend you refer to the books and publications for additional information regarding bird keeping, behavior, etc.
Pellet Conversion
Converting your bird to a mostly pelleted diet is important, but can also be challenging. A complete diet promotes health and reduces likelihood of heart disease, hepatic lipidosis, and other medical problems. For these reasons, it is important to not become discouraged. The following are conversion guidelines with which we have had success. The number of days spent on each stage is suggested, but longer periods of time may be necessary, especially when converting adult or older birds. A good rule of thumb is to move onto the next stage only if your bird has mastered, or graduated from, the former stage. High quality bird pellets include Harrison’s, Roudybush, Lafeber’s, ZuPreem, etc.
STAGES
Stage 1 (approximately 1-3 days)
MIX pellets with your bird’s regular diet in its food dish so that your pet will begin to recognize the pellets as food. Crush pellets into a fine powder and sprinkle over everything your bird eats, including table food/treats, to accustom your pet to the taste. You can also offer pellets by hand to make it a social activity. Some people have had luck with softening the pellets slightly with water or juice to make the texture/taste more interesting (replace twice daily if doing this).
Stage 2 (approximately 7-14 days; older birds may require weeks to months)
Offer the old diet in the food dish for only 30 minutes in the MORNING and 30 minutes at NIGHT. In between these limited meal times of the old diet, provide ONLY pellets (in the same dish/location to associate it with the normal meals). This provides an incentive for your pet to eat pellets when hungry in between the limited meal times. You can also offer a 30 minute midday meal of the old diet in the first few days to slow the transition further if desired. In order to be sure your pet is eating pellets and not “filling up” on other foods, do not offer human food/treats.
Closely monitor your pet’s droppings during this time to be sure feces is present (brown/green solid material in the center). If droppings are all white and/or liquid, this is a sign that your bird is not eating. Other signs to watch for include lethargy, dramatic weight loss, and a fluffed appearance. If your pet is not eating or shows any of these signs, offer some of the regular diet. This does not mean you need to stop the conversion process, but suggests that you need to proceed at a slower pace.
Stage 3 (approximately 7-14 days; older birds may require weeks to months)
Offer the old diet just ONCE daily for 20-30 minutes. Continue to closely monitor for appropriate feces and for the signs described above to
Closely monitor your pet’s droppings during this time to be sure feces is present (brown/green solid material in the center). If droppings are all ensure your pet is eating. Some birds may scream or show other mild behavioral problems at this stage; as long as your pet is eating, do not give in to their demands for treats. If a bird gets “junk” food at any time, he/she will often learn to “hold out” for treats and not eat pellets. It is very similar to a child “hungry” for ice cream, but not for vegetables. This is the time when bird owners must make an effort to be strict parents.
Stage 4 (approximately 2 weeks)
Offer only the new diet for about 2 weeks to acclimate your pet to eating strictly pellets. In order to ensure that droppings are from eating pellets, do not give any treats or human food during this time. When you are sure your pet is eating its pellets well, you can begin offering other healthy foods as approximately 25% of the diet.
*Please keep in mind that while younger birds may convert to pellets relatively quickly, the process in adult and older birds may require weeks to months. If this method is unsuccessful for your pet at home, please inquire about pellet conversion in-hospital.
Good Food to Share with your Parrot
In general, parrots should receive about 75% pellets and 25% other foods. This handout discusses some of the healthy foods that might make up the part of the diet that is not pellets. Remove fresh foods within about 8 hours to avoid exposing birds to spoilage.
In general, parrots should receive about 75% pellets and 25% other foods. This handout discusses some of the healthy foods that might make up the part of the diet that is not pellets. Remove fresh foods within about 8 hours to avoid exposing birds to spoilage.
VITAMIN A DENSE FOODS
Vitamin A is essential for healthy feathers and skin, good eyesight, and a strong, healthy immune system. Vegetables are a better source of vitamin A than fruits. Give your bird vegetables that have dark colored “flesh”, as these have higher beta carotene content. Beta carotene is converted into the active form of vitamin A through metabolism. Vegetables are best fed raw, but may also be served cooked (steamed or sautéed with a small amount of healthy vegetable oil). Overcooking vegetables can break down vitamin A and reduce the nutritional benefit.
Good sources of vitamin A include the following: dark leafy greens (collards, kale, spinach, broccoli, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, chicory, chard, parsley, and alfalfa), green/red/hot peppers, sweet potatoes, carrots, and pumpkin.
PROTEIN
Choose healthy proteins that are low in fat, as the intestinal flora of parrots is different from that of mammals and humans.
Good sources of protein include the following – nonfat plain yogurt, tofu, hard boiled eggs, chicken (well cooked), white fish, turkey, water packed tuna, grains, brown rice, enriched/whole grain pasta, nuts (shelled and of human grade, no salt), and beans.
HEALTHY FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
Healthy Fruits and Vegetables: Offering fruits and vegetables can help enrich your parrot’s psychological and nutritional well-being.
Healthy fruits and vegetables include the following – peas in the pod, bean sprouts, leeks, artichokes, zucchini, green beans, okra, beets, tomato, potato, apples, banana, dark berries, pomegranate, oranges or tangerines, kiwi, cranberries, etc.
WHOLE GRAINS
Whole grain breads, unsweetened or low sugar cereals, whole grain pasta, brown rice, low fat granola, wheat germ, wild rice, and oat bran.
CARBOHYDRATES
Fruits, pasta, grains, beans, potatoes, peas, nuts, and small amounts of seeds.
**FOOD CONCERNS AND IMPORTANT NOTES
-NEVER FEED avocado/guacamole or chocolate (toxic).
-DO NOT OFFER alcoholic or caffeinated beverages. Feeding peanuts, especially in shells, is not recommended due to risk of fungal infection.
-AVOID FEEDING grapes (high sugar, contain toxins) and apple seeds/cores (seeds contain cyanide).
-AVOID FEEDING uncultured dairy/milk products, as birds are essentially lactose intolerant.
-Research suggests that most birds make food choices based on color and texture rather than taste.
-Dietary changes and new foods may alter the consistency/color of your pet’s stool. Please contact us if you have any questions/concerns in this regard.
Confidence Games
Parrots are extremely intelligent and social animals. Appropriate games/activities can provide mental stimulation and promote a flock mentality within the household. This helps keep your parrot happy and healthy, and discourages pair bonding and associated health and behavioral problems. Please note that we recommend your bird be supervised at all times when out of its cage.
Game 1: House Tour
This game works well for hand-tamed birds and birds with a capacity for learning vocabulary. It promotes proper social interactions, and mimics the interaction between parents and fledglings as they investigate their environment. Birds learn how to react to objects in their environment by observing the way parents or other flock members react. This game can also help desensitize fearful/phobic birds, and is useful in teaching birds about dangerous objects.
Example 1 – If you react with fear to a pot of boiling water or hot stove, your bird may develop a negative association with these things, and learn to avoid them. Conversely, you can react very positively toward a new play stand or toy that your bird is hesitant to use, which will promote their confidence and encourage their explorations of the safe area or object.
Example 2 – Show your bird the clock and say “clock”. Show the bird the television and say “TV” and so on. Eventually, some birds may associate the object with the word you consistently use to describe it, and may even react to it in a manner similar to what you demonstrated. After a while, you can try going around the house and giving pop “quizzes”. If your bird tries to say the correct label or reacts in an appropriate manner to something, reward your pet with praise or a small, healthy treat. Remember that the value is in the social time that you are spending with your bird.
Game 2: Flash Cards
This is another variation of the ‘house tour’. You can make flashcards with colors, objects, or pictures on them. As with the ‘house tour’, show the cards to your bird, name things appropriately, and react as you would like your pet to react.
Game 3: Trick Training
If you see a behavior or action you would like your bird to do on command, reward the bird every time he/she does it. Rewards may include excited praise, healthy treats, or simply additional attention. While your bird is displaying the desired behavior, simultaneously use a consistent hand signal, gesture, or word. Over time, positive reinforcement will increase the frequency of desired behaviors, and the bird will associate the cue, gesture, or word with the action. Success requires time, patience and consistency, but can be very rewarding.
Game 4: Warm Potato
Developed by behaviorist Sally Blanchard, this game involves all members of your household, and helps promote a “flock mentality”. Family members stand in a circle, and the bird is gently passed between them. As the bird is handed off, reward with positive praise and/or a healthy treat. Over time, the bird becomes familiar with all members, improving your pet’s social adjustment skills and reducing the chances of a pair bond relationship developing with a single family member. If your bird dislikes spending time with a particular family member, try reserving a preferred treat or special activity to benefit their social interactions. For instance, if your bird’s favorite treat is almonds, the family member who is not preferred should be the one designated to give that treat, providing a positive association.
**Bird behavior, training, and social development are complex topics. Successful techniques vary with species, personality, and particular household. To promote the healthiest and most satisfying relationship with your pet, refer to sources in our ‘Recommended Reading for Bird Owners’ handout.
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