Small Herps

Diet: Crickets should be staple part of the diet, but they can also be fed waxworm or mealworm larvae in small amounts. Juveniles should be fed daily and the insects should be dusted four to five times a week with the calcium/vitamin D 3 supplement and a multivitamin once a week. Adults should be fed every 2-4 days and the insects should be dusted with a calcium/Vitamin D 3 supplement twice weekly and every other week with a multivitamin. See Cricket Care.

Water: Offer fresh water daily in a water dish large enough for the lizard to soak it’s entire body. Additional soaks in shallow warm water for 15-20 minutes 2-3 times a week are helpful, especially during a shed. Some species will require daily misting in addition a water bowl.

Caging: A 10-20 gallon fish tank is a good starter cage. You can adjust according to the size and the number of animals per cage. In general it is not good to house lizards together, but if you choose to, be sure to provide many different hiding and basking spots. Cage set up depends on the type of lizard. Some are more arboreal (White's Tree Frogs, Anolis Lizards, Mountain Horned Lizards, etc) and some are land dwelling (Plated Lizards, Rainbow Skinks,Pac Man Frogs,etc). Humidity requirements also vary. Research the specific requirements for your species of herp and adjust accordingly. All cages should have a warm and a cool side with a hide box/rock on the warm side. Substrate should be paper towels, newspaper, or a paper pulp bedding such as Carefresh.

Lighting/Heat: Reptiles are cold blooded and regulate their temperature through their environment. Proper heat and lighting is important to keep your herp healthy. Provide a basking spot on one end of the cage with an incandescent bulb. You should also provide an ultraviolet fluorescent(UVB) bulb over the cage. Temperatures should reach 92-95 degrees F on the warm side and 70-75 degrees on the cool side. Allow the herp to have 12-14 hours of light in the summer and 10-12 hours in the winter. Putting the lights on simple timers is helpful. Night heat is also important. This can be achieved by using a red or ceramic bulb or an under the tank heating pad. Be sure the pad does not get too hot! Night heaters can be kept on 24/7 for additional day heat or can be put on a timer for extra heat at night. Nocturnal geckos do not require a UVB lamp, but all other light/heat parameters should be followed.

• Always measure temp at the bottom of the cage and/or at the basking site where the reptile actually sits!
• UVB is important for absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal system in all diurnal herps.
• Must be 7-15 inches from the animal in order to be absorbed properly.
• Make sure there is NO glass or plastic between this bulb and the lizard
• UVB fluorescent bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months (even if they still work)

COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS

MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease)

Signs of MBD are swollen and crooked limbs, anorexia (loss of appetite), muscle tremors and lethargy. It is most commonly caused by calcium deficiency due to either lack of calcium in the diet or absence of a UVB light. MBD is sometimes caused by kidney disease. See a qualified veterinarian for treatment.

Impaction

Signs of impaction are constipation, bloating, lethargy and anorexia. There are several different causes including foreign body (usually from substrate), parasite overload, and egg binding. Treatment can range from simple laxatives and anti-parasitics to surgery. See a qualified veterinarian for treatment.

Parasites

Coming soon...